高贵美熟妇泄身

高贵美熟妇泄身

Thursday, June 25, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Lake Test - 13' plywood runabout with Torqeedo 4R, and 50Ah eBike battery bank

Ok good maybe better than just a regular trolling motor?
Hopefully faster
Ever tried it with 24v?
Thx 

On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 12:37:56 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


高贵美熟妇泄身SW,
It's a Hang Kai 2.2 About $450 on ali express, plus about 3 months on the slow boat from China. Haven't tested it yet, but looks well made. Chinglesh directions said "do not use in rain!" . It has some open air vents in cowl, I'm going to fabricate some kind of water trap hood for these.
Jerry



On June 25, 2020, at 10:45 AM, "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


You use the Newport Chinese motor or ?
Do you use model airplane pusher prop?
Thx




On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 23:04, john via groups.io <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Jerry,
Unfortunately, the wiring on the batteries is small.  Probably only good for 30A.  I currently have a 30Amp breaker between the battery and the motor to prevent overheating the wires coming out of the battery.

I was hopeful I would get a chance to test cranking up the motor at the dock when the boat was back on the trailer - but a barge was taking up two of the 3 lanes, and a line was starting to form, so I didn't have a chance to test what power level (and how long) would trip the breaker.

If the Chinese motor will put out 2kw worth of power, you should be fine.   I have tested a Catalina 22 with a Torqeedo 2T (2000W max).  At 1000-1200W, the C22 went about 4mph.  The C22 is a MUCH tougher shape to push than your catamaran, and MUCH heavier.  As always, if you want to go much faster, you'll need a LOT more power.

Dramatically increasing the power will get you a little more speed - but it's not sustainable.  Even if the battery wiring could handle 2500W (max rating of the battery - probably based on the wiring...) - it would exhaust the battery in under an hour.   I want at least 2-3 hours of cruising time for a power boat to be considered practical.  At 500-600W, I should be able to cruise at 3.5-4mph for 3-4 hours on a 50Ah battery.  At 500W for 3 hours, I'll have a nice cruise without overly exhausting the battery.

Do you have a place to mount a single motor (between the two pontoons?)
You may also be challenged to find 24V eBike motors.

For my boat - the sweet spot for cruising seems to be around 600W - hitting around 4mph.  At that power level, a single 50Ah, 48V eBike battery should give me around 2 hours of cruising.   And then, if "something bad happens", I have the 20Ah backup battery that should give me around an hour of "get home" cruising.

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 10:38:16 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
Please cranky uppy to 4k watts and let us know results. I got a 2.3 kw chinese motor and building 12' catamaran dinghy. I think I can get by with the one motor but may need two. Thinking bike batteries like you did.
Jerry Barth



On June 24, 2020, at 3:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief".
Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard.  Specs are below:

LOA:  13' 4" (without motor)
Beam:  5'9"
Weight:  about 300-400#
Draft:  approximately 6-7", with motor up.
Theoretical Hull Speed:  4.9mph

Motor:  Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering)
    48V, max 4000W input

Battery:
  Main battery bank:  48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900)
  Backup / get home battery:   48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR  (under $500)

Both battery systems were bench tested.  For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A).  Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery.  Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W).  I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested.

At the lake!!
First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running).  The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery.  The BMS dropped out at about 48V.   (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.)

The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank.

Performance of the boat consistently met expectations.  Handling was great.  As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well.

 Volts Amps Watts MPH
 58.2    5.15 300         3
 57.0 6.5         370         3.5
 56.8 8.80 500         3.9
 57.7 10.4 600         4
 56.0 15.71 880         4.9
 57         17.54 1000 5
 56         26.79 1500 5.7

I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat.  Please let me know if they don't come across.

If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me.

John


Re: [electricboats] Hangkai 2.2 electric?

Hm.  Interesting.  While the title mentioned "Brushless motor", the specs said it was a 2 stroke gas engine.   :)

If it's only 1200W, and only tiller (which would make sense), then I'd be less interested in it.
Though - if it really can produce an effective 800W, that would get my little boat to a reasonable speed.

On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 05:00:31 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
I misspoke. The motor is 1200 watts. Maybe I came up with 2200 watts because my backup plan is to get another in case one is not enough power. I believe it's tiller only. Here's the link:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32713790916.html

Jerry



On June 25, 2020, at 2:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Jerry,
Not that I need yet another project....   but....
I would love to hear more about this motor as you gain experience with it (though I no longer see it listed - maybe my search is bad?)

Is this motor tiller controlled only, or is there a remote control option.



On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 02:37:55 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


SW,
It's a Hang Kai 2.2 About $450 on ali express, plus about 3 months on the slow boat from China. Haven't tested it yet, but looks well made. Chinglesh directions said "do not use in rain!" . It has some open air vents in cowl, I'm going to fabricate some kind of water trap hood for these.
Jerry



On June 25, 2020, at 10:45 AM, "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


You use the Newport Chinese motor or ?
Do you use model airplane pusher prop?
Thx




On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 23:04, john via groups.io <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Jerry,
Unfortunately, the wiring on the batteries is small.  Probably only good for 30A.  I currently have a 30Amp breaker between the battery and the motor to prevent overheating the wires coming out of the battery.

I was hopeful I would get a chance to test cranking up the motor at the dock when the boat was back on the trailer - but a barge was taking up two of the 3 lanes, and a line was starting to form, so I didn't have a chance to test what power level (and how long) would trip the breaker.

If the Chinese motor will put out 2kw worth of power, you should be fine.   I have tested a Catalina 22 with a Torqeedo 2T (2000W max).  At 1000-1200W, the C22 went about 4mph.  The C22 is a MUCH tougher shape to push than your catamaran, and MUCH heavier.  As always, if you want to go much faster, you'll need a LOT more power.

Dramatically increasing the power will get you a little more speed - but it's not sustainable.  Even if the battery wiring could handle 2500W (max rating of the battery - probably based on the wiring...) - it would exhaust the battery in under an hour.   I want at least 2-3 hours of cruising time for a power boat to be considered practical.  At 500-600W, I should be able to cruise at 3.5-4mph for 3-4 hours on a 50Ah battery.  At 500W for 3 hours, I'll have a nice cruise without overly exhausting the battery.

Do you have a place to mount a single motor (between the two pontoons?)
You may also be challenged to find 24V eBike motors.

For my boat - the sweet spot for cruising seems to be around 600W - hitting around 4mph.  At that power level, a single 50Ah, 48V eBike battery should give me around 2 hours of cruising.   And then, if "something bad happens", I have the 20Ah backup battery that should give me around an hour of "get home" cruising.

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 10:38:16 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
Please cranky uppy to 4k watts and let us know results. I got a 2.3 kw chinese motor and building 12' catamaran dinghy. I think I can get by with the one motor but may need two. Thinking bike batteries like you did.
Jerry Barth



On June 24, 2020, at 3:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief".
Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard.  Specs are below:

LOA:  13' 4" (without motor)
Beam:  5'9"
Weight:  about 300-400#
Draft:  approximately 6-7", with motor up.
Theoretical Hull Speed:  4.9mph

Motor:  Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering)
    48V, max 4000W input

Battery:
  Main battery bank:  48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900)
  Backup / get home battery:   48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR  (under $500)

Both battery systems were bench tested.  For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A).  Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery.  Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W).  I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested.

At the lake!!
First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running).  The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery.  The BMS dropped out at about 48V.   (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.)

The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank.

Performance of the boat consistently met expectations.  Handling was great.  As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well.

 Volts Amps Watts MPH
 58.2    5.15 300         3
 57.0 6.5         370         3.5
 56.8 8.80 500         3.9
 57.7 10.4 600         4
 56.0 15.71 880         4.9
 57         17.54 1000 5
 56         26.79 1500 5.7

I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat.  Please let me know if they don't come across.

If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me.

John


Re: [electricboats] Hangkai 2.2 electric?

Jerry,
Not that I need yet another project....   but....
I would love to hear more about this motor as you gain experience with it (though I no longer see it listed - maybe my search is bad?)

Is this motor tiller controlled only, or is there a remote control option.



On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 02:37:55 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


SW,
It's a Hang Kai 2.2 About $450 on ali express, plus about 3 months on the slow boat from China. Haven't tested it yet, but looks well made. Chinglesh directions said "do not use in rain!" . It has some open air vents in cowl, I'm going to fabricate some kind of water trap hood for these.
Jerry



On June 25, 2020, at 10:45 AM, "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


You use the Newport Chinese motor or ?
Do you use model airplane pusher prop?
Thx




On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 23:04, john via groups.io <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Jerry,
Unfortunately, the wiring on the batteries is small.  Probably only good for 30A.  I currently have a 30Amp breaker between the battery and the motor to prevent overheating the wires coming out of the battery.

I was hopeful I would get a chance to test cranking up the motor at the dock when the boat was back on the trailer - but a barge was taking up two of the 3 lanes, and a line was starting to form, so I didn't have a chance to test what power level (and how long) would trip the breaker.

If the Chinese motor will put out 2kw worth of power, you should be fine.   I have tested a Catalina 22 with a Torqeedo 2T (2000W max).  At 1000-1200W, the C22 went about 4mph.  The C22 is a MUCH tougher shape to push than your catamaran, and MUCH heavier.  As always, if you want to go much faster, you'll need a LOT more power.

Dramatically increasing the power will get you a little more speed - but it's not sustainable.  Even if the battery wiring could handle 2500W (max rating of the battery - probably based on the wiring...) - it would exhaust the battery in under an hour.   I want at least 2-3 hours of cruising time for a power boat to be considered practical.  At 500-600W, I should be able to cruise at 3.5-4mph for 3-4 hours on a 50Ah battery.  At 500W for 3 hours, I'll have a nice cruise without overly exhausting the battery.

Do you have a place to mount a single motor (between the two pontoons?)
You may also be challenged to find 24V eBike motors.

For my boat - the sweet spot for cruising seems to be around 600W - hitting around 4mph.  At that power level, a single 50Ah, 48V eBike battery should give me around 2 hours of cruising.   And then, if "something bad happens", I have the 20Ah backup battery that should give me around an hour of "get home" cruising.

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 10:38:16 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
Please cranky uppy to 4k watts and let us know results. I got a 2.3 kw chinese motor and building 12' catamaran dinghy. I think I can get by with the one motor but may need two. Thinking bike batteries like you did.
Jerry Barth



On June 24, 2020, at 3:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief".
Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard.  Specs are below:

LOA:  13' 4" (without motor)
Beam:  5'9"
Weight:  about 300-400#
Draft:  approximately 6-7", with motor up.
Theoretical Hull Speed:  4.9mph

Motor:  Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering)
    48V, max 4000W input

Battery:
  Main battery bank:  48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900)
  Backup / get home battery:   48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR  (under $500)

Both battery systems were bench tested.  For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A).  Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery.  Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W).  I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested.

At the lake!!
First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running).  The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery.  The BMS dropped out at about 48V.   (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.)

The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank.

Performance of the boat consistently met expectations.  Handling was great.  As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well.

 Volts Amps Watts MPH
 58.2    5.15 300         3
 57.0 6.5         370         3.5
 56.8 8.80 500         3.9
 57.7 10.4 600         4
 56.0 15.71 880         4.9
 57         17.54 1000 5
 56         26.79 1500 5.7

I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat.  Please let me know if they don't come across.

If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me.

John


[electricboats] Hangkai 2.2 electric?

Jerry,
Not that I need yet another project....   but....
I would love to hear more about this motor as you gain experience with it (though I no longer see it listed - maybe my search is bad?)

Is this motor tiller controlled only, or is there a remote control option.



On Thursday, June 25, 2020, 02:37:55 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


SW,
It's a Hang Kai 2.2 About $450 on ali express, plus about 3 months on the slow boat from China. Haven't tested it yet, but looks well made. Chinglesh directions said "do not use in rain!" . It has some open air vents in cowl, I'm going to fabricate some kind of water trap hood for these.
Jerry



On June 25, 2020, at 10:45 AM, "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


You use the Newport Chinese motor or ?
Do you use model airplane pusher prop?
Thx




On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 23:04, john via groups.io <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Jerry,
Unfortunately, the wiring on the batteries is small.  Probably only good for 30A.  I currently have a 30Amp breaker between the battery and the motor to prevent overheating the wires coming out of the battery.

I was hopeful I would get a chance to test cranking up the motor at the dock when the boat was back on the trailer - but a barge was taking up two of the 3 lanes, and a line was starting to form, so I didn't have a chance to test what power level (and how long) would trip the breaker.

If the Chinese motor will put out 2kw worth of power, you should be fine.   I have tested a Catalina 22 with a Torqeedo 2T (2000W max).  At 1000-1200W, the C22 went about 4mph.  The C22 is a MUCH tougher shape to push than your catamaran, and MUCH heavier.  As always, if you want to go much faster, you'll need a LOT more power.

Dramatically increasing the power will get you a little more speed - but it's not sustainable.  Even if the battery wiring could handle 2500W (max rating of the battery - probably based on the wiring...) - it would exhaust the battery in under an hour.   I want at least 2-3 hours of cruising time for a power boat to be considered practical.  At 500-600W, I should be able to cruise at 3.5-4mph for 3-4 hours on a 50Ah battery.  At 500W for 3 hours, I'll have a nice cruise without overly exhausting the battery.

Do you have a place to mount a single motor (between the two pontoons?)
You may also be challenged to find 24V eBike motors.

For my boat - the sweet spot for cruising seems to be around 600W - hitting around 4mph.  At that power level, a single 50Ah, 48V eBike battery should give me around 2 hours of cruising.   And then, if "something bad happens", I have the 20Ah backup battery that should give me around an hour of "get home" cruising.

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 10:38:16 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
Please cranky uppy to 4k watts and let us know results. I got a 2.3 kw chinese motor and building 12' catamaran dinghy. I think I can get by with the one motor but may need two. Thinking bike batteries like you did.
Jerry Barth



On June 24, 2020, at 3:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief".
Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard.  Specs are below:

LOA:  13' 4" (without motor)
Beam:  5'9"
Weight:  about 300-400#
Draft:  approximately 6-7", with motor up.
Theoretical Hull Speed:  4.9mph

Motor:  Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering)
    48V, max 4000W input

Battery:
  Main battery bank:  48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900)
  Backup / get home battery:   48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR  (under $500)

Both battery systems were bench tested.  For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A).  Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery.  Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W).  I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested.

At the lake!!
First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running).  The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery.  The BMS dropped out at about 48V.   (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.)

The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank.

Performance of the boat consistently met expectations.  Handling was great.  As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well.

 Volts Amps Watts MPH
 58.2    5.15 300         3
 57.0 6.5         370         3.5
 56.8 8.80 500         3.9
 57.7 10.4 600         4
 56.0 15.71 880         4.9
 57         17.54 1000 5
 56         26.79 1500 5.7

I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat.  Please let me know if they don't come across.

If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me.

John


Re: [electricboats] Lake Test - 13' plywood runabout with Torqeedo 4R, and 50Ah eBike battery bank

You use the Newport Chinese motor or ?
Do you use model airplane pusher prop?
Thx




On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 23:04, john via groups.io <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Jerry,
Unfortunately, the wiring on the batteries is small.  Probably only good for 30A.  I currently have a 30Amp breaker between the battery and the motor to prevent overheating the wires coming out of the battery.

I was hopeful I would get a chance to test cranking up the motor at the dock when the boat was back on the trailer - but a barge was taking up two of the 3 lanes, and a line was starting to form, so I didn't have a chance to test what power level (and how long) would trip the breaker.

If the Chinese motor will put out 2kw worth of power, you should be fine.   I have tested a Catalina 22 with a Torqeedo 2T (2000W max).  At 1000-1200W, the C22 went about 4mph.  The C22 is a MUCH tougher shape to push than your catamaran, and MUCH heavier.  As always, if you want to go much faster, you'll need a LOT more power.

Dramatically increasing the power will get you a little more speed - but it's not sustainable.  Even if the battery wiring could handle 2500W (max rating of the battery - probably based on the wiring...) - it would exhaust the battery in under an hour.   I want at least 2-3 hours of cruising time for a power boat to be considered practical.  At 500-600W, I should be able to cruise at 3.5-4mph for 3-4 hours on a 50Ah battery.  At 500W for 3 hours, I'll have a nice cruise without overly exhausting the battery.

Do you have a place to mount a single motor (between the two pontoons?)
You may also be challenged to find 24V eBike motors.

For my boat - the sweet spot for cruising seems to be around 600W - hitting around 4mph.  At that power level, a single 50Ah, 48V eBike battery should give me around 2 hours of cruising.   And then, if "something bad happens", I have the 20Ah backup battery that should give me around an hour of "get home" cruising.

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020, 10:38:16 PM CDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


John,
Please cranky uppy to 4k watts and let us know results. I got a 2.3 kw chinese motor and building 12' catamaran dinghy. I think I can get by with the one motor but may need two. Thinking bike batteries like you did.
Jerry Barth



On June 24, 2020, at 3:45 PM, "john via groups.io" <oak_box=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


On Monday, 6/22/20, I conducted my first on the water Lake trial with my electric conversion, "Mischief".
Mischief is a home built plywood runabout, currently powered with a Torqeedo 4R outboard.  Specs are below:

LOA:  13' 4" (without motor)
Beam:  5'9"
Weight:  about 300-400#
Draft:  approximately 6-7", with motor up.
Theoretical Hull Speed:  4.9mph

Motor:  Torqeedo 4R electric outboard (with remote steering)
    48V, max 4000W input

Battery:
  Main battery bank:  48V 50Ah eBike battery system from BTR (ordered on Amazon) (approx $900)
  Backup / get home battery:   48V 20Ah eBike Battery system from BTR  (under $500)

Both battery systems were bench tested.  For each test, the battery was fully charged, and then connected to sets of #9006 12V halogen light bulbs (4 bulbs in series gives a 48V load at about 4A).  Time and voltage were recorded periodically until the battery BMS shut down the voltage output from the battery.  Tests were conducted with 4, 8, and 16 bulbs (max was 4 parallel sets of 4 bulbs, approximately 800-900W).  I have the data on these tests, if anyone is interested.

At the lake!!
First test was a static test of running the boat at the boat ramp (the motor needs to be in the water when running).  The motor was run at 1000W, and ran for approximately 45 min before the BMS dropped out, on the 20Ah battery.  The BMS dropped out at about 48V.   (The BMS on the 50Ah battery drops out at around 40V.)

The first "on the water" test lasted for approximately an hour, and used approximately 30-50% of the capacity of the 50Ah battery bank.

Performance of the boat consistently met expectations.  Handling was great.  As long as you're ok with a walking speed cruise - the boat performed very well.

 Volts Amps Watts MPH
 58.2    5.15 300         3
 57.0 6.5         370         3.5
 56.8 8.80 500         3.9
 57.7 10.4 600         4
 56.0 15.71 880         4.9
 57         17.54 1000 5
 56         26.79 1500 5.7

I've attached a couple of pictures of the boat.  Please let me know if they don't come across.

If anyone would like more details, feel free to contact me.

John


Re: [electricboats] House systems - separate or together with drive system?

Pro Chaser DC-DC 36V 48V Voltage Converter Regulator Reducer to 12V 300W 25A| eBay

This is the converter I used. Works fine for me, as I don't really have any real heavy draw stuff on my 12v house bank like wenches etc; but it should still work fine to fill the house bank back up after occasional intermittent heavy amp draw use. 


On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 11:51 AM, ryanwestbrookcary1@yahoo.com
<ryanwestbrookcary1@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hello Ryan! Good name! I'm Ryan also. 

On my setup, I knew that my house requirements were sufficient to really need their own bank, so I have 2 qty Grp 27 deep cycles in parallel, and seperable by means of a 3-way batter switch. I did this for the reason previously stated, as to be able to isolate a starting battery for the main engine, in my case an old evinrude 140 converted from b.s. vro to mix. 
The 48v bank for auxillary propulsion is chargeable by 4 qty 100w 12v renology panels, and by a small honda 2200w inverter generator pushing a 48v 25a switching power supply, isolated from the solar cells by large blocking diodes, and being fed parallel into a large analogue relay controlled by a charge controller. 

I ended up getting an "intelligent" 25a 48v to 12v nominal converter and just putting it between them, and thus far it has worked just fine. It simply makes more sense, with my setup anyway, to charge the propulsion bank directly and have keep the house bank topped off. I have to be trying hard to pull 30a from it, except of course when starting the motor; and so the propulsion bank makes the cycle rate on my house bank pretty much non existent when at anchor, and when underway, between the solar array and the little genny, it keeps my big bank pretty stable unless I am at full throttle on the electric outboard and running everything imaginable on the house bank


Make sure that the grounds of the 2 banks are grounded (negative) common and bonded to the metal components of the hull, for safety and galvanic reasons. 


On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 10:45 AM, Reuben Trane via groups.io
<rjtrane=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here's the link for the chargers I purchased - 10A each - I feel since they're on 24/7 and there's power in the battery that the small amp version works for me. About $105 plus shipping - took about a week to arrive.

http://www.eurogroup-gb.com/E1079%2010AMP%20BATTERY%20CHARGER%2048V-12V.pdf
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#30602) |Reply To Group| Reply To Sender|Mute This Topic| New Topic

Your Subscription |Contact Group Owner |Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] House systems - separate or together with drive system?

  Hello Ryan! Good name! I'm Ryan also. 

On my setup, I knew that my house requirements were sufficient to really need their own bank, so I have 2 qty Grp 27 deep cycles in parallel, and seperable by means of a 3-way batter switch. I did this for the reason previously stated, as to be able to isolate a starting battery for the main engine, in my case an old evinrude 140 converted from b.s. vro to mix. 
The 48v bank for auxillary propulsion is chargeable by 4 qty 100w 12v renology panels, and by a small honda 2200w inverter generator pushing a 48v 25a switching power supply, isolated from the solar cells by large blocking diodes, and being fed parallel into a large analogue relay controlled by a charge controller. 

I ended up getting an "intelligent" 25a 48v to 12v nominal converter and just putting it between them, and thus far it has worked just fine. It simply makes more sense, with my setup anyway, to charge the propulsion bank directly and have keep the house bank topped off. I have to be trying hard to pull 30a from it, except of course when starting the motor; and so the propulsion bank makes the cycle rate on my house bank pretty much non existent when at anchor, and when underway, between the solar array and the little genny, it keeps my big bank pretty stable unless I am at full throttle on the electric outboard and running everything imaginable on the house bank


Make sure that the grounds of the 2 banks are grounded (negative) common and bonded to the metal components of the hull, for safety and galvanic reasons. 
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#30601) |Reply To Group| Reply To Sender|Mute This Topic| New Topic

Your Subscription |Contact Group Owner |Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_